Day 2 — 2 good sessions (one at low tide with small close out waves and one at high tide with barreling head high waves).
Let’s start with the news — 1st 2 legit barrels of my life. shacked. 1st one closed out but I was fully in for a couple secs. 2nd one was a barreling right which I got shacked on for a couple seconds and made the exit and rode a sick head high right all the way to the sand. Stoked doesn’t get much higher than I’m feeling now.
Benny got easily the best right I’ve ever seen him score. I was on the inside of him during a head high 10 second slashing/pumping ride. He also wins the award for fastest ride so far with a screamer right.
Super hot — still low 30°’s – in the midday sun it feels like 35.
Tide starts to shift to the way we want tomorrow with hightide early in the am / glassy offshores. The high tide comes back at the end of the day for a glass off session.
Being 5 min walking distance to the break is the best thing ever.
Signing out for today. Pura Vida.