2 more days gone by (no update yesterday due to internet issues) with lots more terrific sessions for all of us.
The high tide waiting game is now almost perfect (wake up at 6am for morning high tide and go back to surf at 3pm for high tide push in the afternoon). Gives us 2 amazing sessions per day.
The waves have been chest to overhead consistently (at high tide) and very very clean conditions. If it does get choppy for a couple minutes — you wait — wind switches and within 30 minutes is glassy perfection again. Long perfect ramping waves come up behind you offering a perfect spot to figure your paddle/right/left etc. and by the time you’re in they are pitching. Being a beach break there are some close out’s but they are easier to spot.
Benny, Jes and Marc have been trying for barrels after my coup. Benny came super close last night on a backside. They’ve all pulled into close out ones that just beat you down. I had a left last night that was well overhead, the green wall reeling up behind me and almost pitching over before I got pummeled. Had great long smooth right this morning that I made 3 sections on, high lines, low lined and pumped, almost get mini shacked. Great stuff.
Everyone has been learning so fast — when you have user friendly waves like this that break this consistently — it’s hard not to.
Having the break this close to the house is better than we could have imagined. 2 minute walk from the drive way to the water. If it’s not good yet — walk back to the house – crack a beer and wait 30 mins to check again.
Water clarity this morning was phenomenal. At no point could I not see the sandy bottom clearly — even when paddling way way out to escape sneaker cleanup sets. Not much wildlife in the water — so fish jumping but no turtles or bigger fish to be seen.
Well — signing off for today — walking down right now to check how it looks. Hasta luego.