Two more epic sessions in the books. Both morning high tide sessions have been amazing. Crystal clear water and the swell is building.

Wednesday AM was my session — I couldn’t go wrong. So many good rides. Every dog has his day.

I’ve been scoring some long rights. really long. Benny has been working on his backside cutbacks and tossing buckets out the back. Jes has a date with a barrel tomorrow.

Sun burns all around again (actually just me and erin).

1 more day. High tide is at noon — not merciful for the sun and heat. Waves should be 5ft at 17secs. We’ll give it the best run we can.

Hasta luego.