Friday AM we woke up to some pumping swell. The tide was still low when we first checked but you could see the power in the waves. Meaty closeout board breakers al along the 2 miles of beach.
By the time we got down to the water (only me and Benny as Jes came down with swine flu*) there was 1 other guy out. We paddled out and sat waiting for any kind of shoulder. Dodged some cleanup sets that rolled through topping out between 6-7 feet+ with power to spare behind their lips.
There was a guy out with us on a bic plastic board. No clue what he was doing. I watched him paddle himself over the falls (kinda like he was trying to ride the top of the pitching lip) of a solid 6ft monster. He survived but ouch.
Benny finally got his barrel(s) of the trip — 2 of them in fact. One backside that he got shacked, made it out and then made it into a second that closed down on him. Another FS that he got fully covered on and made it to the shoulder. Both waves were overhead pitching monsters. He was SSSOOO stoked. No photos but Jes was on the beach and saw it go down from inside. I had a bunch of sweet head high rides and even one backside ride sequence that Jes has photos of that I love.
What a way to finish of the trip — biggest crazy waves of the 13 days and no one out. Sounds like a surf movie ending.
We surfed ’til we could surf no more. By noon the sun was blaring and our arms were getting rubbery (mine at least). We called it a session and made for the pool and beers.
We’re already talking about going back and renting the same house. Maybe next year.
I’m back in MTL now. My arms have new muscles I didn’t know existed. I can still feel the CR sun on my face (from the countless burns). Costa rocks. We scored. It couldn’t have been a better surf trip. Waves every day. I feel so lucky.