“The day announced itself with a 20-foot wave that scrambled the Swami’s surfing lineup like some sort of cosmic blender.
It was roughly 8:30 a.m., and the massive wave broke too far offshore for any surfer to ride it – or, for that matter, avoid it. The force of the crashing water sent bodies flying, snapped a dozen surfboard leashes and broke several boards in half. Countless surfers were sent tumbling in the swirling foam, and many decided it might be wise to paddle back to shore.”