surf + skate + snow

Big waves arrive on the West Coast


“The day announced itself with a 20-foot wave that scrambled the Swami’s surfing lineup like some sort of cosmic blender.

It was roughly 8:30 a.m., and the massive wave broke too far offshore for any surfer to ride it – or, for that matter, avoid it. The force of the crashing water sent bodies flying, snapped a dozen surfboard leashes and broke several boards in half. Countless surfers were sent tumbling in the swirling foam, and many decided it might be wise to paddle back to shore.”

Roar at the shore |
Big waves arrive on the West Coast