This past weekend lived up the hype. Pretty much went down exactly as we thought it would be with the exception of having an awesome sunny day yesterday instead of rain.
Arrived at The Wall on Saturday morning to find the winds howling and the ocean a washing machine of 6-8 foot waves. Absolutely no surfing would be happening there. Decided to head north with some stops along the way at some possibly more sheltered locations – but the waves at The Wall were wind waves – as opposed to ground swell – which meant little chance for wrap around into some fine little bay.
Sunday was the same scenario at The Wall – Even larger swell and waves breaking anywhere from the beach to 500 feet out. Headed north again to arrive in main to find absolute steamrollers pumping through the bay we surf. Scary but very exciting. There was a channel of sorts in the middle of the break that offered a “clean-ish” way to get out. Sitting out there was amazing. Waves would come through that you really didn’t want to even try to catch — Just paddle outside as fast as possible. I caught one that was my largest wave ever and had a couple more than I absolutely got crushed on. Jes and Marc were slaying it though – Marc having some of the best rides I’ve ever seen him get.
Monday morning we woke up to blue bird skies and very little wind inland at the campsite — Raced down to The Wall to find it prefect. Not just good – But perfect. Head-high ground swell with strong offshore winds and a good period between waves (7-10 secs). Everyone else in New England had predicted the same thing – and by 9 AM there must’ve been 150 surfers in the water (probably close to 300 by 1 pm which is about the max that bay can hold).
Everyone in our crew stepped up the plate and we each got the best rides of our life. Mine was dropping into a clean 6 foot wave – from within a pack of locals and being the one to make it !) moving quiet fast and having a beautiful fast bottom turn back up the face a bit to pump turn back down to trim. Best ride of my life. Grinned for a half hour.