This coming weekend, there will be swell. Swell of some kind, most probably HUGE rough wind swell. I’m tempted to drive down and check it out but have some other obligations that must be completed. Plus I don’t know how well I’d fair in 50° water and and 40° air temps. I’d like to see how my 4/3 and new EXCEL boots hold up as I really haven’t had to wear them in water colder than 55°.
So this looks like it’s it for my ‘06 surf season. It was the best one yet. Some of the standout memories; watching banane get his best ride ever on his birthday after not surfing much all summer – like an old pro !! Paddling out into 5′ perfect lines in pea soup thick fog with my brother; Finding Wakeda; Surfing many new spots; Ernesto and Hellene; Hurricane days where the summer of paddling finally paid off with some decent fast drops; Riding small waves at Jennes that couldn’t have been any more fun (numerous times); being out in some HUGE hairy conditions; Watching the sunset from outside… and of course — Mexico.
Now I’m starting to think getting barreled under the snow. Huge pillow lines and weightless powder carves at top speed. This year I’m finally wearing a helmet after a couple tree grazes last year and the Canadian fear of getting busted up down south. It’ll be a pain in the ass but I gotta do it.