The first week surfing has been super fun. Took a good 3 days to get some of the kooky-ness worked out. Board survived the plane ride in the new bag. Solid hot hot days and not too much wind. Still very dry here and not a drop of rain had fallen.
We’ve been surfing at Sayulita town break; which is great, due to it’s drive up access and we can see the waves through binoculars from our porch. but always too many people. Without a longboard i’ve had to battle like crazy for anything resembling a wave which means sitting on the point a bit inside. Got raked over the reef once for my efforts. Nothing to bad — more that I don’t trust the water in this bay.
The swell has been up and down; most days have seen at least minimal waves. The lowest we’ve seen is about 2 feet but mostly it’s been between 3 and 4. Today’s been the best so far with head high sets and 4-5 foot in-between’s.
The two better spots we’ve hit numerous times are Burros and La Lancha.
Burros — which is Ed’s favorite spot – has been the most consistent and not to packed all week (due to the swell being low and the wait time between sets pretty long). It finally lit up this mornin’ (Sunday) with some solid 6’+ sets for about an hour.
La Lancha – isn’t quite so consistent but it makes up for that with fewer peeps and it’s harder to find. Also the shear beauty of the place makes it easy on the eyes between sets. There’s a great “take off” rock right at the top of the reef that folds over the wave face but it’s not always the best ride.
The line-ups and locals have been cool for the most part ; only a couple ex-pats who exhibit a lack of etiquette. Sad.
We’ve seen some sea life; a couple seals that always stay 100+ feet away and a giant turtle or two that don”t mind swimming really close. One popped up beside this lady from Florida this morning about 3 feet behind her and freaked her out for a sec. Lastly lots of flying fish that skim across the water trying to evade being dinner — little silver wings buzzing – like the humming birds of the sea. They don’t have a whole lot of directional control and Marc almost got smacked by one last night.
I’ve been getting on average 1 or 2 sick rides per session – with a bunch more that I wouldn’t write home about. The yoga seems to have worked out; with much less pain between sessions and and overall a better burst paddle speed.
Jesse, Marc (who extended his plane ticket by 3 days and scored for his efforts) and Benny have been killing it. Jesse hit some of the bigger set waves this morning with some screamer rights. Ben has improved 10 fold and Marc has battled his way into some of the best rights of his life.
Still 5 1/2 days of surfing left. That “it’s almost over so start pushing yourself hard” feeling is beginning to kick in. It’s go time — thankfully I’m growing a mustache to help wick away water ;-)
That’s it for now — more coming end of the week. Hasta luego.