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surf + skate + snow

Surfing over the weekend

Great mission from the weekend. Drove down on Friday night with Johan; the two new longboards making my Jetta look tiny with them strapped to the roof. B and Family met us down there.

We all hit the water Saturday AM around 7 to find pretty decent glassy waves ’til about 10. Waves between thigh to stomach and 12-14 sec period. The water wasn’t as cold as we thought and my 5/4/3 was a bit overkill – still cold enough for boots and gloves. As the sun came out of the crazy haze that was over the ocean and beach; and boy did it come out; we were able to shed the gloves (which I hate).

The new log works better than I honestly could ever have imagined. Dropping in with a slight angle lead to some very fast rides and easily the longest rides of my life; including the most time I’ve ever spent with my eyes staring at a green wave as I’ve ridden. Hard to explain but so cool. I lost count of how many waves I caught — which is rare for me ;-). Even caught a great right on B’s 7′ 2″ egg. Maybe all that surfing (punishment) in MX and CR has finally paid off.

We finished of the day with a mellow glass-off session @ the Jennes storm pipe. Super fun and not many people out.

Sunday AM we pulled up not expecting much at the wall only to find ULTRA clean green waves with perfect offshore wind. The waves once again about waist high with some sets around stomach at a great 12-14 sec period. Lots of people out but with that long a beach break we were able to find a relatively uncrowded sandy bar to slay. Even better riding than Saturday and I can easily say that we all KILLED IT.

Update: Johan put some photos online. Unfortunately I have no photos as the camera went with the misses to Mexico (the pict above is Hampton beach in 2005 and the closest I could find — albeit about 1 foot higher).

7 replies on “Surfing over the weekend”

i’m telling you man, logs are amazing! after surfing shorties, the log can be a spiritual reawakening. nothing like surfing backside, up towards the nose, like floating.

@feelsgood Haha – funny – she’s a hottie for sure.
@ed – man you woulda loved it – the ultimate sand bottom offshore super hot air and cold water log riding day. I hear exactly what you’re saying.

I have to second that emotion as well. It is such an amazing feeling surfing a longboard. Bottom turning with a smooth, heavy carving feeling and then trimming along the wave; feeling the energy of the wave and moving with it.
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Sounds corny saying it, but it was just crazy fun! :-)

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