Saturday was small and clean in the morning (nice 7 AM session). Johan and I hit Kennebunk; which can be hit and miss; not as much swell but no crowds. Knee high glassy longboard waves.
We slowly made our way down south looking for more swell. Had an awesome breakfast at Fast Eddies in Hampton. Headed to the Wall; where to our surprise we found Vincent and Rio passed out in the sand (they had driven all night and had surfed all morning on NO sleep).
As we sat around talking; we kept noticing the waves were getting bigger. Time to jump on it; and I swear by the time we suited up and paddled out the waves had bumped from knee high to waist/chest easily outta nowhere!! Great 3+ hour session to finish off the day. The water was so warm we were able to lose the wetsuits and surf in boardies and rash guards! Vinny slaying it on his 5′ 8″ ‘captain america’ CI single fin and Rio with his ridiculous quick chops on Vinny’s MINI fish. Both guys are GREAT surfers.
Proceeded to fall asleep in the sun and got fried (even with block on) – man.
Camped out Sunday night back up in Maine; Vinny and Rio followed us up and we sat around listening to Vinny’s amazing stories and Rio’s tales of tropical southern Japan (where he’s from). Jes pulled a ninja mission and arrived at 1am solo – crazy.
We hit the water Sunday only to find the swell just wouldn’t do a repeat performance for us; clean knee+ high in the AM but then it dropped to shin and worse with long waits between sets. Made the best of the situation and brought out the water cam to try and get some good shots of Johan surfing. Jes even got in on the action and took out Johan’s board from some good glides.
We ‘deeked’ and Jes had to pay the heavy price of driving 10 hours for only a couple meager waves. We all chalked it up to him gaining wave karma points.