Over the weekends we’ve been able to go surfing this summer; I’ve been using my new longboard. (writing this as the summer is coming to a close and I feel that it’s time to pull back out the fish as my primary board as the swell hopefully grows through the fall)
My first time really getting a bigger board dialed, it’s been very fun and not quite what I expected in some strange ways.
My board is by no means a performance board; it’s pretty big (9’6″); classic 9″ single fin and a squared off tail. The speed has shocked me. The first couple of the faster rides I’ve gotten almost gotten out from underneath my feet. Also the bottom turn potential is there when I really expected to have to set a rail much quicker and not have that kind of control until I mastered it more. Johan did a great job.
The “tip-in” on drops is also surprising; meaning being able to popup with my feet a little bit further and feeling my nose drive down the wave face. On smaller waves it almost feels like I’m tipping the board using the top of the wave as a fulcrum.
I still have a lot to learn; I feel like I should be able to catch the smallest shin slapper on this board; I really have to work on my pop timing, remember that I can go earlier. Also have to learn how to turtle ;-).
Couple random thoughts; it’s easy to lose track of how long your board is and ding stuff walking to and from the beach – a day-bag was a necessary purchase. Still have to play with moving the fin up and back in the box – so how it feels (doubtful with my limited “tuned” skills I’ll feel much diff but might be fun). Knee paddling is not as easy as it looks. It’s peaceful sitting out during dawn patrol on a longboard.