Last Sunday and Monday we headed down to the coast — Mackenzie was my wingman as everyone else could only grudgingly look on from workplace wave cams and a couple phone calls … “soo.. how was it !?!”.
Sunday was windy — very very windy. There was swell but the biting wind made it tough to sit out in the water. We surfed at Jennes – only to get blown a good 1/2 mile down the beach – as it was a waste of energy to try and stay in one spot. I only know of two spots in NH that can protect you from a strong north wind — and this was one of them.
Big rouge waves and some messy small peaks were a good warm up. Couple good rides but nothing to write home about — messed around on the inside where it was small and sheltered. Semi-empty lineup’s were nice. Wore my 5/4/3 with my boots (no gloves) – water temps weren’t bad. Just that damn wind. Sunday night we stayed at a nice “posh” hotel and warmed our chilled bones in the hot tub.
We both knew it would be cold Monday morning — but wow. Woke up at 6am, breakfast at the free hotel buffet/restaurant and headed out to the car to find it covered in frost. Headed straight for the wall to find it HUGE and scary. No one out. Didn’t notice this sail boat that was in one of my photos. More about that later.
We bee-lined it up the coast; checking 6 or 7 spots until we decided that the only spot we could safely paddle out (did I mention it was HUGE ? We past by NH’s most famous point break that was well OH and heaving) was the spot we had surfed Sunday night (inside left of a point). We suited up around 8am and paddled out (me on the longboard and Mac on his elder quad fish). Not sure why I chose the LB — guess I’ve become comfortable with it.
We tide was low and the paddle out looked LONG. We tried to find a semi channel but the sets were relentless. After about 15 mins of just waiting waist deep I retreated to see if there was another way. Mac had tried to duck dive his way out and just got beat down – you could make it under a couple but one misstep would send you right back to the shallows.
We found what looked like a more mellow way out. Took me a solid 30 minutes of fighting to finally get a lull and scramble out. A testament to long summer of surfing and being in decent shape. The longboard really helped me motor a solid 500 foot paddle past 6-8 foot freight trains. Mac wasn’t so lucky — even with his shortboard he couldn’t find a way – but he didn’t give up and finally joined me way way out where the biggest sets were breaking.
Truly amazing scene. Us two and 2 other guys. Most waves between 5-7 feet and some solid sets every 15 minutes that topped 8/9+ easily. Strong offshore wind made them tough to catch – the few I was able to get into were FAST — almost too fast for my comfort level but we had fun.
After a good long session we made our way north looking for some smaller waves that matched our noodled arms – finding a right hand point into a sheltered bay. The point wasn’t really working but the bay offered some shelter and fun 5-6 foot walls that you could get in and around with ease.
Last story: as we headed north on our way out, we stopped by the wall to snap some picts and check the swell. That sailboat we had overlooked before was now beached up on the sand and BUSTED up. Keel gone and mast broken with no obvious way of getting it out (10 concrete wall behind it). Funny how we didn’t even notice it’s impending doom in the AM excitement.
If we get go again – it will be very cold water surfing. We’ll see.