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The Wall in October

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Wall essentials
Finally got back to the coast with Johan for some sliding over the weekend. Linda had family in town so she gave me the green-light that everything would be fine with Brigitte.

Got down Sunday to find it blowing and chest + messy at our usual spots. We checked the south end where it might have some shelter from the wind and found some cleanish sets (not great period though). Paddling hard and caught some fun ones. 5/4/3 was overkill but the wind made it chilly.

Sunday early AM — paddled out to clean waist + sets at cement land and scored. 4/3 and 3mm booties. Not bad for Oct. One ride near the end I tweaked something and paid the price. For the first time in my life within a hour I got a back spasm which got worse and worse over the next 12 hours. Slowly recovering but it was pretty gnarly.

Loved the surfing, great to be back in salt water and feeling that pulse. Paid the piper but it wasn’t in vain at least.