Field report – day 2

Field report – day 2
Hot hot day again – 32+ C by 10am.

Morning session was another closeout survival fest – don’t go on the wrong wave. Jes and I gave her a go without too much success. Tomorrow has a better morning forecast.

3-6ft, glassy but closing out.

Paddled out this evening for a quick evening session with Steph. Couple good waves bug choppy and hard to stay in the right spot.

Overall a great day – looking fed to a lit more of them coming up as the full crew arrives over the weekend.

Field report – morning of day 1

Field report – morning of day 1
1st paddle out with Jesse – larger sets closing out – timed the sprint and got outside.

Tried for a couple lefts but the waves just had no where to go. Got worked on the inside by some large bombs – good hold down that reminded me to take deep breaths and chill. Jesse said the 2 even larger set waves behind me woulda caught me inside no matter what. Chalk it up to getting wet and de-kooking a bit. Surf tonight.

Swell 4-7ft and closing out – not a great direction.

Water insanely warm.

Air temps – hot in the shade and mind melting in the sun.

Arms already rebelling and complaining.


Now it’s siesta time. Swell photos later.