Field report – morning of day 1
1st paddle out with Jesse – larger sets closing out – timed the sprint and got outside.
Tried for a couple lefts but the waves just had no where to go. Got worked on the inside by some large bombs – good hold down that reminded me to take deep breaths and chill. Jesse said the 2 even larger set waves behind me woulda caught me inside no matter what. Chalk it up to getting wet and de-kooking a bit. Surf tonight.
Swell 4-7ft and closing out – not a great direction.
Water insanely warm.
Air temps – hot in the shade and mind melting in the sun.
Arms already rebelling and complaining.
Now it’s siesta time. Swell photos later.