All excited, we race to put on sun block lotion, which is a MUST, grab our boards off the truck and get to the water. We quickly paddle out, no one really around, just our crew, into perfect clean chest high conditions.
The waves are so good, it’s hard not to jump on the very first one that rolls through a couple minutes later, but I spot mine, wheel around and start paddling as it comes up behind me. Perfect left shoulder. Hand reach down for my rails to pop-up….
My hands grab the rails and they instantly slip off at a VERY inopportune time. I ‘Super Man’ to the flat water below luckily getting my board pushed off to my right so as to not land right on it with my forehead.
Lesson learned — Always always always take the time to grab some sand as you walk from the beach to the water and rub it between your hands if you’ve just put on lots of waterproof sun block ! It’ll remove that filmy slippery layer of grease…. and you won’t end up with a faceprint in your board’s deck.